Mary Lincoln's Dress

Object Details

wearer

Lincoln, Mary Todd

referenced

Keckley, Elizabeth

Description

Mary Lincoln’s purple velvet skirt with daytime bodice is believed to have been made by African American dressmaker Elizabeth Keckly. The first lady wore the gown during the Washington winter social season in 1861–62. Both pieces are piped with white satin, and the bodice is trimmed with mother-of pearl buttons. An evening bodice was included with the ensemble. The lace collar is of the period, but not original to the dress.

After Abraham Lincoln’s death, Mary went into mourning and remained in widow’s clothes until her own death in 1882. She gave some of her White House finery to family members. Her cousin, Elizabeth Todd Grimsley, received this purple velvet ensemble. In 1916 Grimsley’s son, John, sold the ensemble to Mrs. Julian James for the Smithsonian’s First Ladies Collection.

John Grimsley attributed this dress to a “seamstress of exceptional ability” who “made nearly all of Mrs. Lincoln’s gowns.” Although he mistook her name as “Ann,” he most likely was referring to Elizabeth Keckly.

The Civil War made it particularly important that the ceremonial functions of the administration appear dignified and competent. This public image helped calm domestic critics and reassure foreign governments, especially England and France, which were being courted by the Confederacy. The Lincolns faced the challenge of maintaining proper decorum without appearing self-indulgent when so many were sacrificing so much. Their background made this task even more difficult, as they had to overcome eastern stereotypes of “uncultured” westerners.

Mary Lincoln took her role as first lady very seriously. Some newspapers portrayed her as “the republican queen,” elegant and admirable at public occasions. Others criticized her for conspicuous consumption in time of war and sacrifice. Although she came from a genteel Kentucky family, she was the wife of “the rail splitter,” and many people expected her to embarrass the nation with uncouth western manners.

Bequest of Mrs. Julian James, 1923

Credit Line

Bequest of Mrs. Julian James

ID Number

COLL.MTLDRS.005003

accession number

70138

Object Name

dress

Physical Description

satin (part material)

lace (part material)

velvet (overall material)

purple (overall color)

Measurements

overall on mount: 60 in x 48 in; 152.4 cm x 121.92 cm

Related Publication

Rubenstein, Harry R.. Abraham Lincoln: An Extraordinary Life

See more items in

Political History: Political History, First Ladies Collection

Government, Politics, and Reform

Clothing & Accessories

Selections from the Abraham Lincoln Collection

Exhibition

First Ladies

Exhibition Location

National Museum of American History

National Museum of American History

Subject

First Ladies

Record ID

nmah_1359703

Metadata Usage (text)

CC0

GUID (Link to Original Record)

http://n2t.net/ark:/65665/ng49ca746b4-458a-704b-e053-15f76fa0b4fa